Monday, January 14, 2013

Day 959 : M Wells Brunch

Late in 2011, Long Island City lost one of its new found treasures -- M Wells Diner -- helmed by Canadian chef, Hugue Dufour. This diner had quickly gained popularity by crafting and serving a blend of inventive and decadent dishes, sure there was quite a focus on offal but it truly was a dining window into the unique mind of Dufour.

Fast forward to the end of 2012, M Wells reappears! Where? As a dinette housed inside of PS 1 MOMA also in Long Island City. Inspired by the museum building's history, M Wells Version 2.0 modeled itself on the melange of a cafeteria and a classroom. Long desks with tables attached like the ones you sat in during those awkward adolescent years along with long tables with cubby holes for your notepads and pencils and a paired down aesthetic fill the room. The menu came in the form of chalk on a clipboard.

So what did we try at M Wells Dinette?

The Broccoli Caesar which was composed of crunchy broccoli florets, smoked herring, a generous amount of grated Parmesan and baguette crisp crumbles. Arriving at the table like broccoli with cheese "snow," this was a simple and rustic yet flavorful and aromatic take on a classic.

Next up was the Potato and Uni which was one poached egg surrounded by a wreath of purple potatoes, morsels of Uni and a tarragon sabayon. A play on a traditional poached egg dialing up the decadence in an understated yet rich manner. However the dish needed something to cut through the richness of the egg, sabayon, and Uni -- providing a flavor and texture contrast. As is, it was a dish full of roundness and weight, designed to comfort.

Next up was the Razor Clam Ceviche -- not your every day ingredient featured in ceviche and boy did it wow! Delicate and decadent, aromatic and herbaceous - this was an elegant ceviche, perfect with a glass of bubbles.

Next up was the Eggs and Tomato Pot which was a classic, homey bowl of tomato sauce with a poached egg, pesto and of course Parmesan. One of my all time favorite simple dishes -- you just cannot go wrong here at brunch on a wintertime morning! It is all comfort, all the time!

Although I did not partake, I had to include a photo of the Tarragon Tongue as it was the one offal dish ordered.

Overall, a lovely reincarnation of an immediate foodie favorite. I love that the menu gets a complete overhaul on a weekly basis and look forward to returning and trying new dishes. I must say that there is something quite fabulous about dining on decadent food as an adult in a chair that brings back memories of childhood.

M Wells Dinette

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