Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Day 427 : SCS Version 3.0, Dispatch # 1, The Big Guns

Our third SCS Dispatch will feature as I have decided to lovingly call them, the Big Guns -- when you think European cheesemaking what country do you think? France? And when you think American cheesemaking, where do you think? Vermont? Both have a long history of being pioneers in the cheesemaking industry here and abroad, influencing their neighboring states and countries and the world over even. So I thought why not for version 3.0, pull out the big guns!?!?!

For our first dispatch, I thought I'd introduce you to some of the biggest guns of our two big guns. Actually the Vermontster cheese was influenced by the French cheese. I always think it is interesting to taste two cheeses simultaneously in which the flavor profile of one cheese played a part in the creative inspiration of the other.

Our Green Mountain cheese today is Tarentaise crafted by Thistle Hill Farm in North Pomfret. It is an organic raw cow's milk cheese aged for at least six months. Crafted in traditional copper vats the whey utilized to make this cheese is concocted from previous cheesemaking. This organic process of whey creation imbues the cheese with a depth of flavor otherwise impossible. Over the course of its aging process, wheels of Tarentaise are washed and turned coaxing out the characteristic gorgeously golden buttterscotch hues to a wheel of this cheese. Tarentaise exemplifies its terroir -- it's quintessential Vermont cheese done right! Grassy with hints of hay and barnyardy-ness, slightly nutty and butterscotchy with a roundness of flavor and nuanced depth. It is herbaceous and vegetal yet delicate and refined. Great with a glass of Pinot Noir.



And what of its French counterpart? Well, Tarentaise was acutally modeled on two of the firm French Haute Savoie cheeses -- Abondance and Beaufort. The main difference between the two cheeses is actually the breed of cow's milk utilized to craft the cheese -- Abondance is made with the milk of Abondance cows whereas Beaufort is made with the milk of Tarentaise cows. For our purposes today, I chose Beaufort which many people consider the king of cheeses. A firm raw cow's milk cheese that is immediately recognizable by its enormous wheels and the curvature in of the sides of the cheese. It is also smear ripened which helps to intensify the flavor profile of the cheese creating that biting sharpness of a great aged Alpage style cheese.  Unlike other cheeses made in the Alps like say Gruyere or Appenzeller, Beaufort does not develop any holes in its aging process of at least a year to a year and a half. Nutty and brown buttery, with a rustic roundness, floral and savory, with a barnyardy and unique finish. It will show you the finesse of quality Alpine French cheesemaking. Great with red and white wines alike!

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