Tonight I assisted in a very interesting wine class at Astor Center -- Exploring Cool Climate Winegrowing Regions: Long Island. I thought to continue in our tradition, I would imagine the cheese pairings to go with the wines we tasted. I was most excited to explore some of the North Fork wines that I had only tried on occasion, as opposed to the South Fork, the major two vineyards of which I had visited. Now, don't get me wrong, it's not that I didn't like these wines, I was just curious to learn more about some of Long Island's other shining stars. Tonight's class was taught by Channing Daughters' wine maker, James Christopher Tracy and featured a large percentage of their wines along with quite a few others, both North and South Fork wines. Yes, you guessed it, I had been to Channing Daughters vineyard, so I was familiar with some of their wines, but nonetheless, excited to try them again!
Before we get into our pairings, lets quickly go over a few facts about East End or Long Island Wineries:
1. The first winery was established in Long Island in 1973.
2. There are currently 51wine producers on Long Island.
3. It is one of the most diverse and versatile wine areas in terms of types of wine produced and the people who make it.
4. It is a cool, moderate climate.
5. In case you were curious, over 1.2 million visitors help support and fund Long Island's wine business.
Tonight, we had double the number of wines we normally have at Astor -- twelve, instead of six. It allowed you to really try a variety of the wines that Long Island is known for.
And now on to the wines from tonight's class:
1. Lenz, Blanc de Noirs, 2003, North Fork (100 % Pinot Noir grapes) - This sparkling was crisp, dry, minerally, pcukery, pearish and even melony. I would pair it with an aged ash rind Loire Valley Goat cheese like Valencay, easily recognizable due to its pyramid shape. The minerally, fresh and fruity flavors of the sparkling with play of the chalky, goaty flavors of the cheese and create a symphony in your mouth.
2. Channing Daughters, Sauvignon Blanc, Mudd Vineyard, 2009, North Fork - This is one of the lightest colored sauvignon's I had even seen with almost tropical flavors on the nose, but upon taste, it was full of apples, grass, meloney, and peachy -- a definite easy drinking white. I would pair this with a Goat Green Peppercorn Cone cheese. A bloomy rind cylindrical cheese that has a creamy yet inherently goaty interior. Soft, gooey, peppery, and delish -- this cheese is a proper mouthful.
3. Channing Daughters, Mosaico 2007, The Hamptons, New York (32% Pinot Grigio, 29% Chardonnay, 14% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Muscat, 7% Tocai, and 6% Gewuritz) - This wine has the buttery aromas of a chardonnay with the citrusy, floral aromas of a Sauvignon Blanc or a Pinot Grigio, definitely a blend of flavors and tastes. The cool thing about this wine is that it is truly a Vin de Terroir, all of the grapes utilized to create the wine are sourced from the same region. I think this would go really nicely with the Goat Tomme I purchased from Cowgirl Creamery on Friday because the cheese is dynamic yet simple and smooth and would allow the wine to shine while accentuating it as well.
4. Wolffer Estate, Perle Chardonnay, 2007, Long Island, NY -- My least favorite wine of the night, a Long Island Chard that all the scents and tastes, to me at least of why I dislike California Chards. Butter, oak, caramel and more. I got stuck on what cheese to pair this with so I decided to pair it with a nice creamy French butter. Hey, butter for butter right?
5. Channing Daughters, Envelope, 2007, Long Island NY (84% Chardonnay, 11% Gewuritz, 5% Malvasia Bianca) -- This is an ages old skin fermented white wine, created in the same style that white wines were created before the time of refrigeration. I found it to be a dry yet buttery wine with hints of honey and spiced apples. I thought I would pair this with a Pecorino Tartufello, a creamy sheep's milk Truffle cheese. The elegence of the truffle will enhance the elegance of this age old wine making technique.
6. Channing Daughters, Rosato di Merlot, 2009, North Fork, NY -- My favorite wine of the tasting and one I had before; this was a light rose with fanciful and springy flavors with an almost fresh berry side to it as well. I would pair this with a nice Mozarella, heirloom tomato, watermelon, and basil salad. Perfect for a summer picnic at the beach or on a rainy March Monday giving you the opportunity to look forward to said picnic. A true winner!
7. Channing Daughers, Blaufrankisch, 2008, The Hamptons, NY -- My favorite red of the bunch that we tried. This was a fruity yet light and earthy red that belongs paired with a supple grassy cheese such as the Portugese star, Nisa. This cheese walks the line between semi-soft and semi-firm with a vegetal and bright sheep-y flavor. The dynamic grassy and earthy flavoring of the cheese will complement the fruity yet also earth flavoring of the wine.
8. Lenz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Old Vines, North Fork, NY -- A classic Long Island Cab done really well with floral and cassis undertones; clearly made with love. I would pair this with an Alpine Style Cheese like Beaufort, the king of this genre of cheeses. However you can always go with a Gruyere or something of the sort.
9. Raphael, Merlot, 2002, North Fork, NY -- This Merlot was an excellent example of old world meshing and melding with new world. For that I recommend, Uplands Cheese Company Pleasant Ridge Reserve also an excellent example of old meeting new. This American artisanal cheese is molded on Beaufort actually, but if you ask me this baby is a whole new cheese -- bursting with flavors of intense fruit, olives , herbs and a tangy finish.
10. Grapes of Roth, Merlot 2003, Long Island, NY -- A much lighter, daintier merlot with browner hues than the previous wine we tried. Not really my cup of tea, but when paired with a buttermilk blue, the fruity, dark red berry flavors of the wine will be accentuated.
11. Paumanok, Assemblage, 2005, North Fork, NY -- Spicer, bigger bodied red that needs a cream monster to go with it such as a Brebisrousse D'Argental. This baby is a washed rind pasteurized sheep's milk cheese, somewhat like the French cousin of Taleggio. When tasting this cheese, you get on your tongue an oozy, creamy, washed rind goodness definitely capable of standing up to the big guy red we've paired it with.
12. Paumanok, Late Harvest Riesling, 2008, North Fork, NY -- An extremely sweet dessert wine exemplifying how the East End does sweet wines well. This guy should be paired with an intense cheese such as Mimolette. Bright orange in color, aged by microscopic little cheese mites that provide the cheese with a promotion of air flow and the development of flavoring. Don't worry, by the time you eat this cheese after eighteen to twenty four months of aging the mites are long gone and you are left with a neon orange, pastey, sweet and caramelly cheese; a great companion to our sweet wines.
Enjoy the pairings ladies and gents and please experiment with Long Island wines, you are sure to discover something you love.
Lovin' the blog Butta! _JPF
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