Paul Liebrandt walks the most excellent fine line between artist and chef -- spinning tales of wonder and crafting decadent taste sensations on your plate. The meal I had a few years back at Corton was by far one of my favorite dining experiences here in New York City. Each morsel was delightfully decadent and wonderfully creative -- it was the sort of cuisine that the French do so well -- modernist yet without being overly self conscious highlighting a love of seasonal ingredients. So when I heard that Liebrandt was opening a new restaurant in Brooklyn, I knew I needed to try it.
Located within the King & Grove Hotel in Williamsburg is the Elm. A sleek wood adorned two story room that is simple yet elegant. An open kitchen that allows diners to see into the Liebrandt's magic.
The menu itself is quite paired down with four categories - Raw, Sea, Land, and Share.
We started with an appetizer under the raw section -- Kanpachi "Jamon." A ring of cured hamachi, watermelon, heirloom tomatoes, micro basil, and a sprinkling of Vadovan spices - delicate and flavorful, a dance on your palate. Simple, seasonal, and elegant.
Next up from the Sea section the Atlantic Skate paired with a romanesco puree, roasted cauliflower, Marcona Almonds and drizzled with a golden raisin vinaigrette. Rustic yet decadent, flavorful. Bold yet fantastic.
The meal was delicious, the room wonderful, Liebrandt doesn't disappoint at the Elm. The service could be slightly improved but after only being open a week, there is definitely room for improvement.
The Elm
King & Grove Hotel
160 North 12th Street
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